A few days ago we enjoyed one of my favorite winery visits ever: not far north of Arles, France is Chateau Morgues du Gres. They're a medium-sized winery in the Costieres de Nimes, which borders the Languedoc but is the southern-most region of the Rhone (and thus, having the warmest climate of the entire Rhone). CMDG specializes in reasonably-priced wines that are well-made, so you can be sure that I wanted to visit.
First, Aurelian gave us a wonderful vineyard tour. Most of the (large and many) vineyards are floored with galets (rounded river stones), as they were in the path of the Rhone River many millenia ago. The rocks absorb heat and impart a minerality to the wines. The estate grows many fruits, and olives, along with grapes. The high-speed train passes amidst their vineyards, which is a nice counterpoise to the eternity of the grapes.
Then, the tasting, with Anne. Our favorite white was their Viognier; more fruity than many French versions. They make several very good roses. My favorite wine of my entire visit to France was their Capitelle Syrah; fantastic bouquet and rich Syrah notes on the palate, and pretty inexpensive.
As we left we met Francois, the owner. I asked him if I could take home one galet (out of the billions on his property). He acted excited, then ran over to get another one he would rather I take, to better express his estate's terroir: it was a rock the size of a small pig! Great sense of humor, as he should have in that business ;) Their logo is Latin for "without the sun, nothing."
Incidentally, Arles is well worth visiting: a medieval city (in the old center section) with extensive Roman and old French history, and an amazing Roman history museum. Stay at Aubergine Rouge with Eric and Augusto, and you will love it!
Pictures:
1. One of the Mourges du Gres winery buildings:
2. Touring their vaulted cellar room with Anne, who also poured for us
3. Me with Francois,the owner of Mourges du Gres
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