I sold a few older odds and ends recently, and the buyer didn't want this one. It hit the tail end of its plateau in 2005, though the downward slope of a Bordeaux's tail end on its maturity curve is quite flat (assuming good storage conditions), so I wasn't too concerned about that. But, "You should drink it," said the buyer, so I did. This cost all of $19 in 1989, and is worth maybe $98 today.
The "Leoville Trio" are Second Growths in St. Julien, in the Haut Medoc, in Bordeaux. All share a common history, having been broken apart only in the past few centuries. Leoville Las Cases is one of the "Super Seconds," for its sustained very-high quality. Probably Leoville Barton is generally considered next best, on average. That leaves poor Leoville Poyferre as the last of the three.
Spectator scored this 88 (and Parker 92) at one point, but the last Spectator review gave it an 86, calling it "lean and firm, with ample tannins for aging and complex cedar, currant and spicy flavors. Lacking the depth and concentration needed for greatness."
My comments:
Sadly, every step of the process got a little worse. The cork was the best, and the palate the worst. Yet, it is a pretty good wine and was just fine with beef.
The cork: Awesome; seriously the best part of this wine. Rich tobacco notes, with a toastiness and plum hints. Delightful!
Bouquet: Vibrant bright red fruit. Some spices. But the nose was fleeting, perhaps due to the age. The wine did NOT open up in the glass--in fact, it departed, which is a strong indication that it's time to drink it. Still, that fruit was very young; it's great to know that at 26 years a barely-above-average Bordeaux can still seem so young and alive.
Color: A very good reddish-purple. Not the slightest edge-browning.
Palate: Good, not great. Not as rich as I'd like; bordering on whispers of rumors of being too thin. Fresh red fruits, but one-dimensional. Short finish. Really needs some more jamminess. Smooth.
Please convince me if I'm wrong, but I continue to believe that properly-aged Bordeaux is among the best wine in the world. Any young person who will grow up to appreciate it should be buying it as practicable and should be properly storing it, for some future date. If you guess right, you could resell some at a profit; if not, at least you can drink it with friends.
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