We put two heavyweights into the ring last weekend:
Fighting in the red corner, we had 2000 Leonetti Cabernet sauvignon. Age: 10 years. A full-bodied red hailing from Walla Walla, Washington. Rated 93 by Spectator, who says to drink it now. Parker, however, says it can last another couple of decades. Original cost: $60. Present Value: About $130. This was Washington's first cult winery (and now, it's one of three, together with Cayuse and Quilceda Creek).
In the blue corner was 1994 Mondavi Cabernet reserve. Aged; 16 years. Fighting from its base squarely in the Napa Valley. Robert Mondavi was one of the early giants who put Napa on the world stage. Parker called this wine "Mondavi's greatest Cabernet." Original cost: $65. Present value: about $140. Spectator gives this one 87 points ("currant, olives, and cedar") and says to drink it up now.
The Mondavi was decanted right before drinking, to remove sediment, of which there was plenty. The Leonetti was just opened and poured. A group of us observed the wines over time.
The gist: Neither wine presented the complex aromatics that I hope for in a Cab blend. Each was just OK on the nose. In the mouth both were very jammy and smooth, with nice dark fruits showing. The Leonetti had good structure (acidic backbone) for food. One note worth mentioning is that this was the first Leonetti I've opened that didn't make me feel like I was robbing the cradle. If I were a buyer building my cellar, I wouldn't pay the current value for either of these puppies, though they were very good. Just not good enough to warrant a price (presently) of $130-140.
This is not Leonetti's best; I think on a good day the best Leonetti would probably smash the best Mondavi. There is every reason to continue thinking that the better wines from Walla Walla, Tri-Cities, and Yakima are head and shoulders above their similarly-priced competition from Napa and Sonoma. That is a generality and of course there are exceptions, but that is my belief and no events of the past 20 years have done aught but to further solidify my feeling.
Life is good, when we have opportunities to make such comparisons!
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